Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Day Two - June 11, 2009 - Arequipa


After a nice buffet breakfast at the hotel we walk to Mundo de Alpaca, a museum of sorts, built by one of the leading Alpaca industry companies. There are about 3 Million alpaca worldwide, with nearly 80 percent of these in Peru. It is a large part of their life and their economy. The museum has exhibits set up that show the history of alpaca

production, as well as the modern process, from farming


through finished products. They have women from rural areas where alpaca are raised, showing how the fiber is separated, processed, and woven into products. It's a really nice place, and an educational experience. Of course they

have a gift shop, where you can buy some of the nicest (and most expensive) alpaca products that we

see for the entire trip.


We walk across town, over the Chili River, to the town of Yanahuara where we encounter several small protests related to the struggles that are going on in the northern Amazon. These are just a few small, peaceful marches, but there are police in riot gear located at several points in Yanahuara as well as Arequipa.

With the encouragement of a few local women, we hike up to the Mirador Yanahuara, another beautiful plaza with requisite cathedral, and an excellent viewpoint overlooking Arequipa. We were running a little behind, time-wise, but these women were insistent that we check out the beautiful view. We have lunch at a very nice restaurant there. I have Lomo Saltado - alpaca meat stir-fried with some veggies. It is great. Very lean, but not gamey, sort of like bison. We race back to our hotel in a cab to prepare for our raft trip.


We are picked up by the rafting company in a van. After picking up more tourists

around the touristy section of the city, we head out of town. They stop at their out-of-town HQ to hitch up a trailer with rafts, and we're off again. The scenery of the country is interesting, lots of agriculture. Finally we are at the put-in. They suit us up in wetsuits, helmets, life vests, and old keds sneakers, and divide us into 3 boats, each with a guide. After a brief instructional session we are off. This section of the Chili River has a ton of class II, a few sections of III, and one section of IV. It is aptly named, as the water is FREEZING. We are mostly warm in our wetsuits, but our feet are cold. We share our boat with an Italian couple. It is a total blast, with almost continuous, super-fun whitewater for over an hour. There are 2 places where we have to walk a short distance, one of them in the water. It is frigid. When we were at the office, and they said we'd only be on the river for just over an hour, I'd almost voted not to take the trip, but it turns out to be well worth it. Really, really fun!


A couple of Allison's colleagues, Priscilla and Ernie, lead student trips to Peru periodically, and among their many recommendations for the trip is a rooftop restaurant on the Plaza de Armas.

It is supposed to have an excellent sunset view, so we race to change clothes and head down to the Plaza. On the way, we pass by the rafting company, right when one of our guides is coming out. He recognizes us, and is excited -- he goes

back into the office to grab mom's flip-flops, which she left in the van. We get to the restaurant just after sunset, but the sky is still pretty. I try what has become the national drink of Peru, the Pisco Sour. Pisco is a liquor distilled from grapes. It was developed by Spanish settlers in the sixteenth century. Chile and Peru tend to fight over ownership of Pisco. Chile produces and exports more, but it has been a part of Peru's history for much longer. In a trip report that Gerry Weber wrote of he and Anneke's trip to Peru a few years ago, he said "Piscos Abound!" We now know what he meant, the drink is everywhere. The recipe is loosely thus:


2 oz. Pisco

1 oz. Lime Juice

3/4 oz Simple Syrup

1 Egg White

1 Dash Bitters


Shake hard or blend with ice and strain into a glass. The bitters are an aromatic garnish to top the foam.


It is excellent, although it violates one of a number of don't-get-sick precautions: it contains ice, which undoubtedly was produced with TAP WATER, which most likely contains WEE BEASTIES (as Leeuwenhoek would've said). We are of course not supposed to drink tap water, not supposed to eat fruits or vegetables washed in water (unless we are peeling them OURSELVES), not supposed to drink fountain drinks or drinks with ice, not supposed to eat food from street vendors, and not supposed to rinse toothbrushes with tap water, among other things. These precautions become routine, and are not that much of a hassle, although it is a bit of a shame not to be able to eat street food. Below in the square there is traditional music, dance, and costumes. It is the Fiesta de Corpus Christi. We soon realize that Peru is Fiesta central -- almost everywhere we go there is some sort of celebration (or two).

Day One - Peru 2009 - Allison, Will, Jamie (Will's Mom), Terry (Will's Sister)



Will says:


My mom retired in October of 2008, and it was Allison's idea to go on a trip with her to celebrate this occasion.  We were kicking around places to go, and Allison threw out the option of Peru.  We floated the idea past Mom, she said "great!" and Allison started to make the plan.  She researched all of the destinations, with Terry tossing in the idea of hitting the Amazon region.  Allison spent many hours searching on the web and emailing folks in Peru, as well as talking with friends and colleagues who'd spent time there, and she put together a fantastic trip for us.  And here it is (was):


Day 1 - June 9-10, 2009 - Travel to Arequipa


Mom drove up yesterday from Florida.  Terry joins us half way through the trip.  Today we fly out of Atlanta at 5:45 PM on Delta, arriving in Lima at around 12 AM.  It takes us a bit to figure out what time it really is -- they're in the same time zone, but DO NOT observe daylight savings time.  We nap in the modern, clean, nearly deserted Lima Airport, then fly to Arequipa at 3:15 AM on June 10th.  We are now on a LAN Airlines plane, which is owned by Delta.  We arrive in Arequipa at 5:10 AM, and are greeted by a van driver from our hotel - Casa de Mi Abuela (My Grandmother's House).


Arequipa is a modern city, in the way that third world cities are modern.  Lots of new buildings, lots of buildings in mid-construction, lots of exposed concrete, lots of traffic, lots of areas of poverty here and there, and lots of dirt.  It is surrounded by beautiful volcanoes.  Our hotel is in the nicer, more touristy part of Arequipa.   Casa de Mi Abuela (photo to the right) is a beautiful little refuge of buildings, courtyards, and pretty trees.  We nap.  We wake mid-morning and walk down to the Plaza de Armas (below).  Every Peruvian city of any size has a Plaza de Armas, or central plaza, with a nice park in the square, and a Spanish Cathedral overlooking it from one side.  The cathedrals vary in size and ornateness, depending on the size of the city, and when the cathedral was built.  Every one of them is beautiful.  We walk through the cathedral briefly, then walk up the road to visit the Juanita Museum.  Juanita is the name given to an Inca girl that was sacrificed on the summit of the Ampato Volcano, at around 20,000 feet in altitude, about 1466.  She was discovered by American anthropologist Johan Reinhard in 1995, preserved in ice.  She remains frozen in a glass case in the museum.  Imagine the Incas climbing to 20,000 feet, in the snow, in rope sandals...  It's a great museum, with many artifacts, and a good tour guide.  It finishes in the room where Juanita rests.  Eerie.


We eat lunch at Mixto's, on a rooftop deck near the plaza.  Cuy (guinea pig) is a delicacy in Peru, and I've committed to trying it while I'm here, and decide to dive in and get it out of the way.  I order Cuy Frita (fried guinea pig).  Mom and Allison order a pizza.  We are excited to sample Peruvian beer, and order a Cusqueña, by far the most predominant beer in Peru.  It is terrible.  It tastes like a crappy beer, with salty soda water added.  W

e hope there is better Peruvian beer.  Our food comes.  The pizza looks fine.  

The guinea pig looks like a guinea pig.  Literally, it looks like they plucked a guinea pig from its running wheel and tossed it right into the fryer, then onto a plate.  I orient the plate so that it's looking at Allison. I admit that I'm a bit disturbed by the whole and complete animalness of it all.  I start to dig in with knife and fork.  I know it's a bit cliché, but it tastes just like chicken.  There's very little meat on a guinea pig, however, so the knife and fork don't work very well.  I'm sure that the locals just tear off a leg and gnaw on it, but I'm not quite willing to go that far, so after a few bites I resign to eating some of the pizza (which we all agree sort of sucks).  The waiter takes the cuy away, mostly intact.  We bet that this happens more often than not (with the turistas).  We hope that the food gets better along with the beer.


We head up the road to the Monasterio Santa Catalina, a convent built in 1580, and enlarged in the 1600's.  There are approximately 20 nuns living in a small portion of the complex, with the remainder open to the public as a museum.  We walk ourselves through a self-guided tour.  It is a beautiful complex (left).  We are still a bit jet-lagged, and head back to the hotel for a nap.


Later we toodle around town a bit more.  We wander into the Cusipata river rafting company (there are many companies offering whitewater rafting, this one is recommended by Lonely Planet) and book a short raft trip for tomorrow afternoon, just out of town.  We head to dinner at a vegetarian place, Lakshmivan.  It is excellent.  We have vino tinto (red wine) instead of beer.  Things are looking up on the food and drink front...

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Heading to Peru

Our 2009 summer travels are taking us out of the country.  We are heading to Peru with Will's mother, Jamie, for a packed trip from Arequipa to Puno to Cuzco to the Amazon.  Will's sister, Terry, will be joining us in Cuzco for the second part of our trip.  We will do our best to update our blog when we are not exploring canyons, observing wildlife, visiting ruins, or simply getting to know the local culture and people.  

Our itinerary:

June 10th - 12th Arequipa
June 12th - 14th Colca Canyon
June 14th - 17th Puno/Lake Titicaca
June 18th - 25th Cuzco/Pisac/Machu Picchu
June 25th - 27th Puerto Maldonado/Southern Amazon